After yesterday's epic we were very glad that today's ride was a bit less strenuous.
Starting in Ullapool we took the opportunity to visit the supermarket to replenish supplies like concentrated orange juice, shower gel, etc. We also bought breakfast, as the SYHA hostel didn't provide one, and some sandwiches for lunch.
At the supermarket we met a couple from New Zealand who were also cycle touring and we felt much better about our own luggage seeing how much stuff they were traveling with.
We took the road north, with the road climbing underneath us. We immediately felt the fatigue of yesterday's outing, the "glorious" sunshine had already taken on a new less repeatable adjective, and the friendly local horse flies were back.
Rosie resorted to extreme measures and immersed herself in a nearby waterfall to cool down.
Taking a break from the climb we met a friendly local, out on his new road bike, who warned us that we had yet more climbing to do. Silently cursing him and his luggage-free carbon framed bike, with which he was able to simply fly up hills, we set out again.
Climbs always end though, and we were granted a pleasant descent with spectacular mountain views, followed by the chance to stop a tea room for a cold drink and cake.
From here the road was a lot flatter and we were glad of the headwind because it helped to keep us cool and stopped the flues from following us. We knew that we would have one last big climb before the descent down to Kylesku, and sure enough there it was, the line of a road snaking up the mountainside in the distance.
It was at this point that something truely wonderful happened; it started to rain! We were truly exhausted but no biting flies accompanied us up this hill and the cold drops of water were wonderful.
It was painful, but soon enough we had made it over the top of the pass and were able to enjoy the rapid descent to Kylesku, where we were booked into the hotel by the sliproad where the old ferry crossing used to be. We arrived very tired and so glad to be off the bikes.
After we'd arrived the weather improved and we were able to enjoy a nice sunny evening. Also worth mentioning was the food at the hotel, which was superb!
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